Handles are more thatn 3.1/4 apart. The pliers can bend all types of tubing and the unique head design bends tubing without collapsing the tube and without marking the surface. This double headed brake line tube bender can bend both 3/16 & 1/4 bundy and steel tube without kinking or flattening.Handles are more than 3-1/4 apart and unique head design keeps handles in line with the tubing for proper leverage even when bending steel tubing.Bending range from 0-120 degrees. Unique head design bends tubing without collapsing the tube. Bends all types of 1/4 OD tubing. This becomes critical when trying to align the attachments on both ends of the line.Bends 1/4 Brake Lines Without Kinking or Flattening, Especially in Tight Spots. When replacing a brake line, the ideal case for replacing the line would be to purchase an OEM replacement so that the replacement line matches exactly with the original. Alternatively, they can be purchased as a straight piece that can be bent to your liking.You can see that it has two handles and grooves at the tip to allow for the tubing to sit in. There are many styles and types out there, but they all essentially do the same thing: bend the line in a consistent and accurate manner while not kinking the line.This is the tubing bender out of the box. How to Bend Brake LinesThis is the tubing bender that I used to bend my brake line. Other tubing benders can be found on Amazon. The larger the tube, the harder and more effort it will take to bend the tubes.I would like to point out that there are different styles of this type of bender, as well as other types of benders which will do the same thing.You want to know how much you’re going to curve the line. You can see below how once you draw the right handle, it will start to bend the new line into the shape of the existing line.You can see below that you will bring the right handle down and it will start curving the new brake line into shape. The mark you made (where the existing tube starts to bend) would be placed at the 0 mark. Remember that you want to mark it right where it starts to bend.Then, you’ll want to take the new tubing with the marked line of where you want to bend, and place it into the tubing bender as shown below. You can make a mark with a permanent marker at that location, so that you know where to start bending the new line. Typically, you’ll want to line the ends up and then see where the existing line starts to bend.
Otherwise, there is a small bit of finagling to get the alignment in addition to bending with the tube bender.I even had to use a round handle that I had in the garage to further work the line into the correct bend. For tighter radius bends, it might be useful to find a bender that can do that. This makes the bend as smooth and consistent as possible again what you really don’t want are kinks in any type of critical line such as this one.This was a difficult bend to do because this is quite a short run of line with bends. The bender I got only goes to 90 degrees a 180 degree bender which I’ve linked in the Tools/Materials section at the top of the post would be a better choice.Always try to make one smooth motion for the bend. Bible reading in malayalamFor shorter and tighter bends, you should strive to match it the best you can and know that as long as the end connections are very close to the original, you can work the end a bit to make it fit, albeit not ideal. For long and smooth bends, this shouldn’t be difficult to do. So you should try to match the bends the best you can. Kinking it will reduce the inner diameter of the line and as a result, reducing the effectiveness of the hydraulic system.Every little bend in the line results in the end connection being located in a particular spot. Again, if you do this to do some final tweaks, make sure to do as little of it as possible because there is a higher risk of kinking the line.
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